Pork in grapefruit leaves: a Muong delicacy

Grilled pork wrapped in grapefruit leaves is even unfamiliar to many food connoisseurs in Vietnam, but not for the Muong ethnic group in Hoa Binh province, the third largest among Vietnam’s 53 minority groups.
Pork in grapefruit leaves: a Muong delicacy ảnh 1Cha cuon la buoi (grilled pork wrapped in grapefruit leaves) can only be found in Hoa Binh province (Photo: VNA)

Hanoi (VNS/VNA) - Many people are familiar with grilled pork, butfar fewer have ever tasted grilled pork wrapped in grapefruit leaves. The dish is even unfamiliar to many food connoisseurs in Vietnam, but not forthe Muong ethnic group in Hoa Binh province, the third largest among Vietnam’s53 minority groups. 

The dish, known as cha cuon la buoi, is very poplar in the country’snorthwestern region. Bui Van Thao, a Muong resident of Ban Ngoi village in TanLac district says he saw his grandparents making it since he was a child.Previously, the dish was only prepared on festive days, but now it has become adaily family staple.

The most important ingredient for this dish is the pork made from one of threepig species raised by the Muong. They are not kept in pigsties but allowed toroam freely in the forest. The recipe calls for the grapefruit leaves to not betoo young or too old and carefully washed before wrapping the pork.

Thao reveals his family’s recipe. First, the pig belly is cut into smallpieces. It is then mixed with pepper, minced onion, fish sauce, and glutamate.“It has also to be mixed with mac khen seeds or doi seeds,” Thao says.

Those two kinds of seed are typical and very important spices in Vietnam’snorthwestern mountainous regions for their special perfume and spicy taste.

The pork is then wrapped in grapefruit leaves, and then grilled over coal forabout 30 minutes. The grapefruit leaves give off a perfumed smell.

Pork in grapefruit leaves: a Muong delicacy ảnh 2To make cha cuon la buoi, pork is wrapped in grapefruit leaves and grilled over the coal for about 30 minutes (Photo: VNA)

Thao explains that local people use grapefruit leaves because they can easilyfind them in the garden and they are big enough to wrap the pork pieces. 

“We love this dish as it is delicious, simple to cook, and can cure diseases.We use those grapefruits leaves to cure fever, and headache,” he says.

At Ngoi Hoa cultural and tourism village in Tan Lac district, tourists aretaught how to make cha cuon la buoi in cooking classes. 

However, there the recipe is somewhat different from the local traditional way.

The mac khen, or doi seeds is replaced by peanuts, which can be found easily inHanoi or other cities. The Muong pork is replaced by regular pork available inany market.

Though it is not the same as the traditional version of Muong locals, this dishis very tasty. 

Local sticky rice cake

Among various other local specialties, Thao is also proud of a kind of cakemade from sticky rice. It is named banh oc nhon (cone-shaped cake).

Twice a week, family evenings are spent on preparation of this cake.

Pork in grapefruit leaves: a Muong delicacy ảnh 3The funny shape of the banh oc nhon pleases local children (Photo: VNA)

Local people call it banh oc nhon because of its shape, which is similar tothat of an ice-cream cone.

Thao explains that his family makes this cake for festive occasions, too, butfor daily consumption he makes this cake in a very simple way. He takes stickyrice wrapped in banana leaves and then boils it in water for two to threehours.

On festive days the banana leaf is also stuffed with mashed green beans andpork, in addition to the sticky rice.

Its taste resembles that of banh chung (traditional glutinous rice cakespopular on the Lunar New Year).

 “We make the cake in different forms, wecan also make it square shaped. But this cake is most known in the region inthe shape of a cone snail. My little daughter loves it,” he says, smiling whilesitting in his wooden house on stilts and watching his daughter enjoy the localdelicacy.-VNA
VNA

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